Vintage Sunglasses

During the twentieth century the role of spectacles evolved dramatically, transforming a largely functional object into the ultimate fashion accessory. The concept of fashionable spectacles, opposed to them serving simply as a medical necessity was revolutionary, defining a whole new concept and industry.  Eyewear was now a fashion accessory, instead of hiding their glasses away, people could enjoy wearing them and be playful and experimental in their choices.

So how were the iconic designs of vintage sunglasses developed? Who was responsible for making them and why are they still so popular today? By looking back through the history books we can pinpoint exact moments in time that were transformational to the industry, from developments in material, to the rise of celebrity….each historical event has made a significant impact on both the design aesthetic and the way we wear eyewear today.

The scissor spectacle and rivet spectacle, two lenses connected by either a rivet or a V shaped frame and precariously balanced on the nose, are other early examples of early eyewear designs.  Napoleon Bonaparte was short-sighted and apparently wore a pair to help rectify this.  The quizzer glasses, a single lens held up to the face by a handle were a favourite among the British upper classes and were often manufactured in gold or silver, for added opulence. These early glasses were always designed to be seen, often fitted with small rings or rope, they could be attached to your clothes and hung allowing the ornamental flourishes to be displayed.

The Lorgnette, despite being a French word, was designed by an Englishman, George Adams in around 1770. This delicate design was a new style of folding spectacles featuring lenses attached to a handle that they could fold neatly into.  These opera-style glasses were incredibly popular and were, along with the Monocle (a single lens held up to the eye) adopted by the upper classes of the eighteenth and nineteenth century.  Today you can see modified versions of these vintage sunglass designs incorporated into jewellery and other eyewear accessories; necklaces that have small prescription glasses hanging from them that you can hold up to your face to read, or chunky acetate chains that incorporate a single lens among one of the links.

Humans are particularly good at innovating and with each decade came a new array of spectacle design.  Developments in materials, tools and manufacturing techniques paved the way for the modernization of these, although ornate, humble designs.  Fashion played a large part in dictating these developments, the desire to have something more elaborate, chic or unique is a trend that has never gone away.  By the late 1800’s to early 1900’s we begin to see a more familiar version of the spectacle we know today; a pair of lenses, with two temples that wrap around the ear.  It is these vintage eyewear designs that has been endlessly replicated, reworked and modified.

By now, eyewear is commonplace.  Prescription lenses serve a very important purpose and the spectacle is worn by all.  Gone are the days of the ornate and opulent, the spectacle had become functional and practical, serving simply as a medical device.  In 1919, an Englishman named Phillip Oliver Goldsmith was working as a commercial salesman for popular optical firm Raphael’s.  Tired of selling these simple, metal designs he set out on a path to change things and launched his own company; Oliver Goldsmith, a brand where functionality and fashion worked hand in hand.

Traditionally, glasses were only really made of one of two materials: (real) tortoiseshell or metal.  The introduction of plastic (by Phillip Goldsmith) ignited a tidal wave of innovation.  This affordable material was transformational for the industry.  It could be heated, moulded, shaped and cut into original designs and was available in many colours.  Historically, colour had only been seen on eyewear by inlaying jewels, cut glass or enamel, but plastic made it accessible to all, and the possibilities became endless.

By the late 1940’s Phillip’s son Charles had taken over the business.  He shared the same energy for innovation as his father and in 1949, he created ‘Sunspecs’, potentially one of the first ever sunglass designs to be made.  He fitted slightly larger and more avant-garde spectacles with coloured glass lenses and they became an instant success.

By the early 1950’s sunglasses had gained a high profile and were worn by the most stylish men and women of the era.  A selection of unusual designs started to appear, with Oliver Goldsmith at the forefront of this movement, and it is these vintage sunglasses that we see so readily in modern eyewear design today.

As the industry grew, eyewear became an essential part of both men and women’s wardrobes.  Couture and independent brands paved the way for original sunglass design with everything from dogs to diamonds being incorporated into eyewear.  What eventually emerged from this myriad of design was a small selection of shapes that have gone on to become timeless classics.